Showing posts with label food. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food. Show all posts

Monday, March 21, 2011

Liberal Women with Guns

(Originally published in the Juneau Empire, October 2010)

Good Liberal Girls don’t play with guns. In fact, Good Liberal Girls know that worship of guns is the downfall of our nation. They take Judo and self-defense classes instead of relying on an easy trigger. Good Liberal Girls know that Bad Conservative Boys want guns because they’re afraid of Good Liberal Girls! And, of course, they should be afraid; we will always defy stereotype in ways that flummox those Bad Conservative Boys.

In fact, if we want to, we can become Good Liberal Women – who play with guns.

I remember the first time I held a hand gun as a good liberal girl. I was immediately nauseated and had to give it back to my (good liberal) boyfriend. There’s too much sociopathic death forged into the barrel of a hand gun. They were designed to kill humans. I still can’t hold one, and hope I never can.

But I also remember the first time I held a hunting rifle. That time, instead of needing to sit down, I stood tall and took aim. The power. I could hike a Southeast game trail in summer, and not be the game. I could participate in the web of life, not just shop for groceries. I could feed my family from my own labors.

I was 38 when I entered the hunt. That local bastion of Good Liberal Women, KTOO, offered hunting lessons for two women during their on-air auction. Before I knew what I was doing, I bid and won. The next item for bid was a 90 minute massage… I stayed on the line to bid for that, too, to still feel like a Good Liberal Woman. A friend bid for the 2nd offering of lessons for two women later that day.

So there were four of us, good liberal women all, holding hunting rifles in our arms for different reasons. J was a biologist in bear country who didn’t want to be a meal. S’s two young sons’ love of guns perplexed her, and she wanted to be able to share this with them. E’s new husband was an expert hunter and though she wanted to move on from carrying lunch to shooting it, felt it was a bad idea to add hunting lessons to typical marital negotiations. I partly wanted to put meat on the table, but also knew my young daughter would soon learn to shoot, and I couldn’t face the fear that comes from not knowing. I wanted to forge as many connections with her as possible, before she started giving me the “talk to the hand” sign.

And who was going to teach us? Well, one of those Bad Conservative Boys, of course. But, as is the case 95% of the time, people like each other regardless of their stance on Federal subsidies or what kind of change is required in the White House. Spin-masters on both sides want us to forget that as a species, we want to get along. And we did. Our instructor, Rick, was a great teacher, a knowledgeable woodsman, and an all around terrific guy. But we all knew better than to correct him about Obama’s position on the 2nd Amendment… at least not while he had a gun in hand. And since no one from Obama’s office has come to our houses to take our guns away yet, it’s good to know that those conservative boys can be worry-warts, too.

Rick taught us well; in the classroom, about where to aim at to ensure a clean, quick kill, about hunting laws and regulations, about different rifles and loading configurations, and about the wonders of freeze-dried food (the peach cobbler was my favorite). At the firing range, helping us sight our guns for accuracy and learn to hold our bodies relaxed, to reduce fatigue, and how to best hold our rifles for a good shot. Throughout the lessons he emphasized the importance of ethical hunting and taking responsibility for every shot fired. The ethical part was a big surprise for me. Bad Conservative Boys defy stereotype, too.

To end the course, Rick took us in pairs into the early winter Tongass, hunting for deer. Neither team of women, nor Rick, fired a shot on those outings, or even saw a deer (though the story is that when the other team of women saw two deer cross the road while driving home, one of them all hollered “Run ‘em down, Rick!”). But his calm, assured, “one with the forest” attitude while hunting was one of the best lessons. Everyone, no matter their politics, can love the forest and be in awe of the wonders found there.

So here’s a guided visualization for Good Liberal Girls and Women: even if you’ve spent your life speaking against guns, like I had; even if you’re afraid of firing a gun; even if it has become a habit to order steak at the Hangar. Imagine the beauty of our boreal rainforest, the peace of walking through it softly or sitting for an hour on a moss-covered log, Buddha-like in your calm and awareness. Then allow yourself to feel the primal need for family survival (my husband prefers the phrase, “blood lust, surging through your veins,” and he’s an Extremely Liberal Man). Respect and thank the deer, as women have done for untold centuries (no one can tell me that women haven’t hunted throughout history – like pretending that American women didn’t work outside the home in the 50’s). Liberals and Conservatives alike, we can always agree on the desire for a full freezer.

Find your inner Diana:
Though I highly recommend finding a trusted and experienced hunter to get you started, here are ways and organizations for you to follow to learn how to hunt. If I can do it, trust me, so can you.
Becoming an Outdoors Woman (BOW): www.sf.adfg.state.ak.us/region3/programs/BOW/
An excellent resource for hands-on experience with hunting, fishing, and other wilderness skills. November 14-20 they will host the Raspberry Island Fin & Fur Adventure off of Kodiak. There will also be a camp in Southeast in May, 2011.
Juneau Hunter Education: http://www.huntereducation.alaska.gov/ or 465-4265
These are excellent introductory classes that cover firearm safety, wilderness safety, laws and regulations, and the basics of firing a rifle. The instructors are experienced local hunters and Fish and Game employees. There are no classes currently scheduled so you can call the Alaska Department of Fish and Game at 465-4265 to get on a list for future classes.
Cooperative Extension 4-H Program: http://www.uaf.edu/ces/4h/ or Darren Snyder at 796-6281
A lot of women start hunting because of their kids. The 4-H shooting sports club might be a place you can experience it together.
Field dressing a deer: if you’ve got the stomach for it, there are lots of good videos on You-Tube. But it really is best to see someone doing it live; it was actually less difficult for me to watch it in person. It was somehow more respectful to the animal to be able to touch it and, well, thank it.
Once again the Cooperative Extension Service comes through. Check their website for some terrific learning modules. Also watch for local Community Kitchen events (JuneauCommunityKitchens@gmail.com) about processing game.

Sarah Lewis is a local architect and social worker, and proud owner of a Ruger 308 compact rifle with a laminated stock and Leupold scope… and she loves how good it looks with her Xtra-tufs.

Monday, February 28, 2011

From Fin to Farmers Market: the Case for Community Kitchens

(Originally published in the Juneau Empire, July 2010)

One of the best times I’ve had in a kitchen was when my husband and I got together with another couple for a ‘But Puppy Party. Too risqué for the pages of L’Attitude you think? Off color for the Juneau green scene? Oh, but you’re wrong. ‘But Puppies are possibly the finest form in which to eat that favored bottom feeder: Halibut. If the name makes you blush, just call it halibut sausage.

Most people have never heard of this culinary delight. My in-laws used to capitalize on this fact, extorting half the sausage we made in trade for access to their carefully guarded recipe. We’d supply the halibut, sausage casings, and elbow grease. They’d supply the secret ingredients in covertly pre-measured amounts.

It’s a gauge of how much I love halibut sausage that I allowed my in-laws to hold us hostage for so long. To be fair, though, they kept the recipe secret because they hoped to market it some day, to sell it to a world awaiting this taste treat. The first step towards their goal, though, was a big one: a DEC approved kitchen.

It takes a fair bit of work (and money) to create a kitchen that can be approved by the DEC – I know from experience as an architect for the CBJ. Commercial food handling needs sanitary conditions that it’s almost impossible to get in a residential kitchen, without multiple sinks and specialized surfaces.

At first it seems a mundane vision, until you realize the many things a person could do with access to a commercial kitchen, especially a nice big one with enough equipment for large batches, and space to spread out or arrange an assembly line. And the special surfaces and multiple sinks are not only more sanitary, but a boon when it’s time to clean up.

This needn’t be just a vision, it turns out, but can become a reality for almost anyone. There are quite a few commercial, DEC approved kitchens in Juneau that mostly sit unused. Every kitchen in a Juneau school is DEC approved, for example, with little action all summer. I’ve also heard rumors of church kitchens that are available, and maybe one at the university.

What would I do with a good commercial kitchen? Several times a year (for May forest harvests and seaweed, June rhubarb, July fish, August berries, September zucchini, November deer, and December holiday treats) I’d get several friends together for a day or weekend in the kitchen, everyone showing up with raw materials and going home with food for the pantry, freezer, and gifts.

And if the kitchen were DEC approved, I could even sell some at the summer Farmer’s Market at the JACC. Items like jams, jellies, vinegars, dried herbs, teas and baked goods can be sold directly to consumers without an additional food service permit (and made at your home kitchen if you’re only selling at the Farmer’s Market). Halibut sausage and other specialty processed foods would likely require a temporary food service permit from the DEC, and can’t be sold unless prepared in a DEC approved kitchen.

The Food Security Committee of the Juneau Commission on Sustainability has been talking with the Cooperative Extension about starting Community Kitchen days at a local kitchens, possibly at a high school. Classes on a theme – sausage-making anyone? – might be offered, but mainly the kitchen would be available for working individually or in groups to put food by, for good fun and local eating.

My in-laws have yet to take their sausage to the next level, and I eventually found a good halibut sausage recipe at the UAF Cooperative Extension. Maybe I’ll help them fulfill their entrepreneurial dream by renting one of the school kitchens the next time we get a few halibut, and take the Puppies to the Farmers Market.

Resources for starting your own community kitchen:
  • Juneau Commission on Sustainability, Food Security Committee. Call Beth McKibben at 586-0465.
  • UAF Cooperative Extension. Call Darren Snyder at 796-6281.
  • Juneau School District, Community Schools Program. Call 780-2075.
  • Department of Environmental Conservation. Call Jason Waird at 465-5163.
Halibut Sausage – Sea to Skillet
Halibut sausage is best made with 50 or more pounds of cleaned fish, and a group of folks who know each other well enough to make the jokes that are inevitable when sausage is in the making:
  1. Go fishing: from the ADF&G Fishing report on June 21, it averaged 5-rod hours to harvest a halibut around Juneau (our most recent averaged 5 rod-minutes)… much better than the 60 rod-hours for a king salmon! Hot spots reported were Pt. Sophia, Lynn Sisters, North Shelter, and Benjamin Island.
  2. Halibut of 30-50 pounds are the best… bigger ones have long flakes that can jamb the grinders.
  3. Buy 1” sausage casings from the butcher, preferably bleached. White fish, white/clear casings… just looks nice.
  4. Skin and bone the fish, cut into medium size chunks, refrigerate for making sausage within 24 hours.
  5. Grind in a manual or Cuisinart-type grinder, using a medium plate (do not use a KitchenAide grinder; salt water and tough grinding can destroy it). Weigh the ground fish and divide into 10 lb batches.
  6. For every 2 lbs of ground fish, add the following and mix until distributed evenly (tweak spices to your taste, if desired):
    • 1 teaspoon salt, pepper, ground ginger, ground coriander, garlic powder, dried thyme, and rubbed sage.
    • 1/2 cup powdered milk
    • 1/8 teaspoon cayenne and ground allspice
    • 1/4 cup olive oil
  1. Stuff the sausage into the casings using a manual or KitchenAide-type sausage stuffer. Make links by twisting the full casings every 6 inches. Make kielbasa by twisting every 12-18 inches.
  2. Put the sausages in zip-lock bags, seal with as little air as possible, then double bag or wrap in freezer paper. Date for eating within the year and freeze.
  3. If you aren’t in a commercial kitchen, spend the next 1-2 hours scouring your kitchen. If you don’t, you’ll spend a week hunting down the source of that awful smell (the year we left unwashed dish cloths overnight was a memorable one!).
  4. Cook on a lightly oiled skillet at a medium setting until brown, or grill. Eat for any meal, with condiments of your choice.
Sarah Lewis is not a great cook, but has recently read Michael Pollan’s book, Food Rules, and feels smug that her halibut sausage follows 25 of his 62 rules.

Monday, February 21, 2011

The Seaweed Days of Summer

(originally published in the Juneau Empire, June 2010)

The transformation from spring to summer is beautiful in Southeast Alaska. Our springs may be heavy on showers and light on flowers, but April and May in Juneau are the kind of fresh and clean that detergent marketers ache for. And we can get outside and experience nature with fewer layers between us and the cool air as we put in gardens, anticipating July and August harvests.

Then June arrives. Ho hum. Nothing to harvest, not much watering to do, just tedious weeding to keep dandelions, knot weed, and horsetails at bay. What’s a locavore to do? Well, it turns out that between sowing seeds and harvesting veggies is the best time to get out of the garden and collect Mother Nature’s free food! Imagine that. She teaches us, yet again, to stop moping around and go outside and play.

So I’ve heard recent talk of fiddleheads, nettles, twisted stalk, and Devil’s Club shoots. Recipes are circulating. It fits the verdant image of summer, doesn’t it, to frolic through the lush green fronds with a woven basket. Maybe a flowing skirt and a choice pair of shoes from Shoefly to finish the picture.

But are the members of my little homestead preparing to enter the woodland realm? Of course not. My family has chosen slogging instead of frolicking, an A&P bag instead of a basket, and Xtra-Tufs instead of those really cute Naot shoes I covet. This year the greens we’re harvesting are seaweed. My small, info-packed library of wild harvest references has been hanging around the house for weeks, awaiting their time in the sun… or, well, you know what I mean.

Though Alaskan, born and raised, it took the Becoming an Outdoor Woman program to finally introduce me to wonderful seaweeds – or I never would have combined these three words: seaweed tastes good! It has become un-American not to like seaweed-wrapped sushi; you can practically get the stuff in vending machines (with a side of antibiotics, please). But I don’t like food that tastes like the briny, microscopic-life-filled ocean. And it seemed a safe assumption that seaweed would taste like sea water. But then, lettuce doesn’t taste like dirt! So I feel kind of silly now.

This year, my 10-year-old daughter beat me to the first harvest on a recent sunny day at the beach. She brought back several types and it took less than an hour for it all to dry and be crumbled into jars for adding to soups and her favorite meal, Top Ramen. Later this month we’ll head to the beach again with the goal of harvesting pop weed for bullion, dulse for chips, sea lettuce for seasoning, and wakame for stir-frying.

Harvesting Seaweed in Southeast Alaska
There are some real upsides to harvesting seaweed:
  • Though some are unappetizing, none in northern waters are poisonous and there are no “look alikes” to fear.
  • Most seaweeds are rich in iron, protein, calcium, potassium, magnesium, and vitamins.
  • They can be found on almost every beach in Southeast Alaska. No secret spots.
  • My favorite: on an open beach you’re less likely to surprise a bear.
  • Supplies are few and simple: rubber boots, typical Southeast clothes (i.e. layers and rain gear), small scissors or knife, and several food-grade plastic bags or containers, or mesh bags.
  • Most are good raw or cooked and can be refrigerated for a short time or dried for long term storage. Best if dried quickly in the sun, to keep flavor, and stored in air tight containers in a cool place.
But there are precautions and considerations:
  • Make sure you’re not near a sewage outfall or below housing.
  • As with any wilderness activity, bring survival gear should you get stranded on a rock or become wet and chilled: drinking water, a snack, a large plastic garbage bag (or sturdy emergency blanket) and multiple signals (a flare, a phone, a VHF radio, a mirror).
  • Never harvest a whole area of one seaweed type. Harvest selectively and always cut above the holdfast (the part attached to the rock), or leave the reproductive blades, so the seaweed can re-grow.
  • Almost all seaweeds are best when harvested in spring and early summer, and dried in the sun, eaten, or otherwise processed quickly.
  • Rinsing seaweed in fresh water will speed deterioration. Only do this right before eating, if desired, and not if planning to dry.
In June, head to a beach an hour before low tide and look for these common seaweeds on rocks in the intertidal zone:

Pop weed (Fucus species) –Harvest when young and olive green. Inflated tips and tender frond ends can be eaten raw, stir-fried, in soups and sauces, or used as a cooking bed for fish over campfire coals. Dry it for broth and soups.

Dulse (Palmaria mollis) –Several reddish-brown, thick blades on single holdfast. Cut fronds an inch above holdfast. Very nutritious. Eaten raw or stir-fried. Dried dulse is good with cheeses, as a bacon substitute in sandwiches, shredded and tossed with buttered popcorn, added to soups and casseroles, and fried in oil like potato chips.

Wakame (Alaria species) – Single, long, olive brown frond with thick midrib and several small reproductive blades at base near holdfast. Harvest only the main frond, leave small blades. Center rib is crisp and good raw or stir-fried. Frond good with bacon, cabbage, rice, and miso soups. Very nutritious and nearly 25% protein. When dried, powder can be added to breads to increase nutritional content.

Sea Lettuce (Ulva species) – Long, vivid green, leaf-like blade is so thin it is almost see-through. Gather before they turn whitish and tough by mid summer. Add fresh to salads and soups or blanch leaves in boiling water for two minutes and serve with butter or vinegar. Dried leaves can be powdered for a salt substitute.

Books to Read
Common Edible Seaweeds in the Gulf of Alaska, by Dolly Garza
Discovering Wild Plants: Alaska, Western Canada, The Northwest, by Janice Schofield
Edible? Incredible, by Marjorie Furlong and Virginia Pill

Monday, February 14, 2011

My Main Street Homestead

(Originally written for the Juneau Empire on 4/21/10)

I want to be a farmer. An up with the sun, collect the eggs, milk the cows, harvest the crops, mend the fences farmer. As a Juneau girl, raised and now living on a downtown lot that’s way more house than land – in a climate where fungi and Douglas Fir are more natural crop choices – I don’t know how it happened. But here I am, pitchfork in hand with no hay to pitch.

But they say you’ve got to bloom where you’re planted, and I suppose there’s some truth in that, despite the two-leg, opposable thumb thing humans have going. And I do love where I’ve planted myself in downtown Juneau, it’s just really hard for a budding farmer to bloom on
Main Street
. It takes a lot more brain than leg work, and I’m forever thumbing through books to find solutions to my conundrum. Slowly, but surely, I’m finding them.

For example, I’ve found a peck of other wanna-be-farmers. Google “urban homesteading” and there are blogs, books, and “institutes” dedicated to folks planted in cities, but tilling the soil around them. And, as through history, there are many reasons people want to homestead: independence, simplicity, environmentalism, conservatism, religion. “Opting out” and “taking part” are both typical. My mom says that everyone builds castles in the sky, but only the crazy move in… maybe it’s different if it’s a farmhouse?

My own motivation is a need to become home-focused and deliberate with my days. My great grandmother Mabel Pierce Reed was a Goldrush pioneer. Today she’d be the first to exclaim the virtues of a modern dishwasher, but appalled that I can’t bake my own bread and cover it with homemade blueberry jam. That, instead, I buy bread that’s so pumped up it won’t mold, and I’m unsure where to pick berries.

So, inspired partly by memories of Grandma Reed, I quit my day job. It was a great job and I liked it, but it left me little time to farm with my kids, bake bread, or pick berries. So this summer I’m on my way to becoming a stay-at-homesteader.

And in my preparations I’ve learned that, no matter what brings a person to start urban homesteading, if you have shelter there are two main things that consume you: money and food; how to get them, how to use them well, and how to preserve them for the future.

For money there are some pretty well agreed upon steps to take, all of which have their own library of how-to books, but to get started:
  • Eliminate credit card debt. It’s evil. We’re all suckers for it. Never stop trying to get rid of it.
  • Carry cash. It’s harder to hand over than a piece of plastic.
  • Make “egg and butter” money. Find activities that bring in a little cash. Possibly real eggs and butter, but more likely making scarves or selling books online. Or maybe start writing for the paper.
  • Find a cash cow. A working spouse with a job is the best, especially with health insurance. Alternatively, rent out a room or apartment in your house or offer to manage a friend’s apartment as a vacation rental. Come up with a million dollar idea and sell it online. You’re smart, you’ll find something.
  • Conserve. All resources, from diesel and hydropower to cotton and wheat, cost money. Only buy what you need, and do the conservation measures you hear about everywhere. They help.
  • Save your money. Investments, savings accounts, the mattress... whatever you’re comfortable with. Emergencies are worse when you’re broke.
  • Make an alternative commerce system. Freecycle, JuneauParents.com, Craig’s List, Alaska Dames & Gents, Mommy and Me, garage sales… these should be stores in your mall.
  • Reduce, reuse, recycle, really.

Food is a bit more complex. There’s an amount of belief required: that kitchen scraps will turn into soil, that seeds will germinate, that you can keep other species alive. Just take it at a comfortable pace. Once again, there are many resources available, start with the Cooperative Extension Service at the University.
  • Compost. Start a pile or repurpose a garbage can. Alternate “green” (vegetable-based scraps from kitchen and garden) and “brown” layers (dried leaves or grass, wood chips, sawdust, newspaper) to keep things from getting stinky. Add water if dry, drainage if soggy. Never add meats or strong smelling foods (onions, for example) that might attract bears. Add worms if you want, and presto!
  • Farm. I started with 40 square feet of soil in pots. The next year I added my 50 square feet of land that gets sun. I grow salad greens, chard, kale, peas and zucchini… and even put some by for the winter. And I am not a green thumb by any stretch. Next year: chickens.
  • Study home economics. For $10 I can make six loaves of bread. That would be about $24at A&P. That’s worth it for me. Balance time and money.
  • Harvest from nature. This is where urban homesteading in Juneau gets really good. Blueberries and salmonberries, nettles and twisted stalk, sockeye and deer. And don’t rule out seaweed. I did, for almost 40 years, and was embarrassed to discover it’s darn good.

And finally, in the dark winter months, read. By the light of your farm house oil lamp, of course.

The Integral Urban House, 1979, The Farallones Institute
The Edible City Resource Manual, 1981, Britz
Square Foot Gardening, 1981, Bartholemew
Permaculture, 1990, Mollison
The Urban Homestead, 2008, Coyne and Knudsen
Toolbox for Sustainable City Living, 2008, Kellogg and Pettigrew
Food Security for the Faint of Heart, 2008, Wheeler
Back to Basics, 2008, Gehring
Homesteading, 2009, Gehring
And, of course, Mother Earth News.